Little Italy and the big mountain

 

It used to be that the area surrounding the Khao Yai National Park was cowboy country, an overspill from nearby Saraburi, Thailand’s cattle country.

People wore cowboy hats, plaid shirts and jeans to go out in the evening for hoedowns or to karaokes featuring country and western favourites. Some still do, but these days Khao Yai’s ambience has changed from heehaw to mama mia.

Someone – no one seems to know just who – looked around the bare brown hills and said, “You know, this looks a bit like Tuscany.” It does. Sort of.

The Italianisation of the Khao Yai area, north east of Bangkok, started small, with the construction of Primo Posto, a faux Italian hamlet comprising a row of seven attached buildings in strong earthy Mediterranean colours, wooden shutters on the windows and creepers climbing the walls. In front is a small formal Italianate garden; out back is a terrace looking out over a small vineyard.

Primo Posto opened only at the weekend, but then it was jammed with Thais, mostly weekenders from Bangkok, popping V-signs for photos to put on Facebook, then heading for the terrace, tucking into plates of pasta in the restaurant, accompanied by a bottle of wine from the enoteca, and finishing off with an espresso.

By the winter of 2008 it had become the place in the area to have a private dinner, perhaps with a pianist tinkling away in the background. Country sophistication for the urbane urbanites of Bangkok.

The success of Primo Posto gave birth to the Palio. This is much more ambitious – an entire village, with a central plaza, restaurants and shops stocked with goodies from all over Europe.

It’s really very well done. Narrow, winding cobbled streets, a village clock, a small formal garden featuring a replica of Rodin’s Thinker, and plenty to eat and drink.

There are 120 restaurants, bars, coffee shops and shops selling everything from hats to dolls. Delightful names abound: Vampire Snow Ice, Kiss Me Doll and Fries Me To The Moon are just a trio of examples. There’s even a branch of the Government Savings Bank, and a small hotel, the Palio Inn.

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